490 gallon Maldivian Reef

Home 2006 Reef 3

On the last page I'd got to the stage that the Tank room was tiled, Electrics were in and things were progressing nicely. So to continue that trend here are some more build details.

By late august 2006,  most of the room was completed, and it was time to start thinking about building the supports for the main tank and getting the tower sump system completed. So to this end I constructed the framework and built the tanks myself (many thanks here go to Greenburg Glass for the excellent workmanship on the glass. All in, to supply the glass to build 4  2'x2' tanks of varying depth, it cost me just £200 (and that included chamfered and ground edges all round). So without further delay I started construction. Now it might seem a bit odd that I wanted to build the tower sump ;prior' to the main system, But this was done for a reason.

Whenever possible, I've always preferred to connect a new system to a pre-matured filtration system or sump. The main reason being, that if you 'can' do it, you get a far faster maturation of the main system, and it can minimise the possibility of those pesky algal phases we all dread. This is largely due to the fact that whenever you fire a new system up with a fresh batch of rock and water, you invariably have a certain degree of algae friendly nutrients available from the start, that take a while to be disposed of whilst the filtration system develops to the stage that they are removed. Adding a pre matured filter, means that from the moment its connected to the main system, you have a large and constant transfer of viable and well matured bacteria 'and micro-fauna' to the main system that will speed up colonisation and hold water quality far more stable than a completely raw setup that goes through various troughs and spikes in ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. This can be very applicable to the introduction of new Live rock, where  we wish to hold parameters as stable as possible to preserve as much life on the rock as possible. In the long term, this can pay good dividends as far as overall diversity and waste handling properties of the system is concerned.

 

The first job was to design the sump assembly.

The main idea was to segregate the various aspects of the systems filtration, into completely separate areas. With a conventional sump, you are pretty much tied as far as overall space goes in most instances, to a single main filtration method and 'like' flow through the sections from inlet end to return pump. In this case I wanted to  have differing flow characteristics from one section to the next to meet the differing habitat requirements of a wide range of critters and filter feeders.

This is a picture of the final Tower design minus the supporting framework..

This picture shows the arrangement of tanks (without the frame support). Going from top to bottom.

1. The Cryptic Tank. This tank is fed by a tee-off from the main return pump. The main idea is that this tank will be blacked out (dark) and will be filled with a few pieces of live rock and branch rock, and a very shallow layer of sand. It will be fed a very gentle flow and will be home to all those creatures that prefer a dark and gentle environment, such as sponges tube worms, bristle worms, tunicates etc. The big benefit of this area is that these creatures offer a very effective means of filtering out various fine organics and nutrients from the water that passes through this area. In addition to this, they provide the main tank with a valuable and ongoing source of live larval food to enhance the diet of the corals. Because this area is protected from predation. It will also help replenish critter diversity within the main system and alleviate any pressures from the existing tank stock. ( Dimensions 24x24 x18" deep)

2. This is the main overflow tank. Water flowing over the full width surface  weir in the main tank is channelled along a communal 50mm overflow pipe running along the back of the tank and is deposited in this section.. A single weir catches the largest waste particles so these can be siphoned out on a regular basis from the base of this tank. Water then flows out through a 40mm Durso (plus a 32mm backup Durso not shown in these images) down to the DSB area below. (Dimensions 24 x 24 x 8" deep)

3. The DSB area is the main filter for the tank. This will house a 6-7" deep DSB and temporary Cheatomorphyllia algal bed. Water flows into this tank via the Durso's above and is then forced through a horizontal slot in the separating baffle that sprays water across the surface of the sand bed. The Cheatomorphyllia floats above the bed, shading it and providing a worthwhile habitat for pods, miniature brittle stars, and worms. Again, out flowing water flows from the far end of the sand bed, out through a 40, and 32mm Durso. to the return tank below. (Dimensions 24 x 24 x 23" deep). (At a later stage. The algae will be removed to a separate tank that sits in the window of the tank room to act as a separate algae bed/refugium leaving the DSB functioning in the dark solely as a DSB.)

4. The return tank, is situated at the lowest point, and has two separator baffles to de-gas the falling water of excessive bubbles. It is also the location where the outflows of other equipment is plumbed to. for example, the skimmer , Rowaphos reactor, calcium reactor (via the skimmer outlet pipe) and its also where all evaporation is topped up via a hard plumbed float valve from the RO unit which runs an auto shut off valve. It was important with this section to make it deep enough to allow the total amount of backed up water from other sections (and the tank) to reside, should the return pump fail. (Dimensions 24 x 24 x 18" deep)

'Overall' flow through the sump is via a sequence 10,000lph return pump. with approximately, 6000lph going back to the main tank, 2000lph going to the Rowaphos reactor, and 1000lph going to the Cryptic tank which then runs back to the main tank as well. (the remaining 1000lph is lost through head pressure on the return pump)

Here are some shots of the various tanks in close up.

 

1                                                                             2

 

3                                                                                  4

  

 

In an effort to keep things as clean and professional looking as possible all glass panels were ground square, and had slightly chamfered edges to make building the tanks as easy and accurate as possible.

  

After building the tanks, It was time to build the stand. This consisted of a wooden 2x4 framework. with 1" thick supported base panels  to hold up each tank. Each beam was screwed and glued to maximise strength. Which was essential with so much weight involved (effectively its like trying to support an 8x2 sump on its end) to get the whole thing as square as possible. especially seeing as the top Cryptic tank is supported nearly '7ft' above the ground. the total sump assembly holds approximately 150 gallons.

 

This is a shot after the sump tanks and stand were constructed. but prior to adding most of the baffles or drilling for Durso's etc.

For full details on the setting up and initial running of the DSB compartment which was completed approximately 6 weeks after this shot was taken.. CLICK HERE

To look at further work and  the initial tank stand building. Please turn to the next page.

Home 2006 Reef 3